Symptom And Treatment Guide for Specific Photoaging Conditions


The following is a quick reference guide to examples of which treatments and products are more appropriate for specific photoaging symptoms.

Each client’s skin, of course, is different and may require a combination of the products and treatment modalities.

Wrinkles, Rough Textures

  • Alpha hydroxy acid in the form of serum is the first priority to rid the skin of excess dead-cell buildup.
  • This helps smooth the skin surface, softening rough textures and improving hydration as well as minimizing the appearance of the depth of wrinkles, especially fi ne lines.
  • Sunscreen is important for all forms of aging skin symptoms, but it is a required accompanying product for the use of any AHA product.
  • Creams or serums used after the AHA serum application with acetyl hexapeptide-8 help soften the look of wrinkles, especially facial expression lines.
  • A series of 30 percent AHA exfoliation treatments is the first treatment priority since this series significantly improves skin smoothness as well as improving the absorption and efficacy of home care and other professional treatments.
  • Microdermabrasion in a series of treatments is an alternative to the AHA in-office treatments.
  • After the initial series of AHAs, maintenance treatments are needed, and a series of LED treatments will help to further refi ne the skin surface.

Poor Elasticity, Skin Sagging

Alpha hydroxy acid in the form of a serum, followed by a serum or product with palmitoyl pentapeptide-4 or palmitoyl oligopeptide and palmitoyl tetrapeptide-7, will help improve the appearance of firmness.

Antioxidant topicals are also helpful and may be included in the peptide serum.

Daily sunscreen is a must, as is hydration appropriate for the skin type.

Collagen stimulants such as hydrocotyl (Centella asiatica) and coneflower (Echinacea purpurea) may also be included in the product mix.

A series of 12 microcurrent treatments, administered twice a week and followed by regular maintenance microcurrent, will show the most improvement quickly.

If the skin is severely wrinkled or damaged, an AHA series before the microcurrent series is advisable.

Eye Area Photoaging Conditions

Care for Fine Lines and Wrinkles (“Crows Feet).

The best choices are a specialty eye cream containing lipids and palmitoyl peptides for collagen stimulation.

A cream with a very low concentration of mild alpha hydroxy acid may also be appropriate or can be alternated.

Care for Bags under Eyes and Eye Area Puffiness.

The best choices are a specialty eye product (cream or serum) containing flavonoid hesperidin methyl chalcone to help capillary leakage and acetyl peptide-2 for fluid dispersion.

Many of these products can be coupled with firming peptide ingredients, as well. Cool packs and very light massage can also be helpful.

For Dark Circles Under Eyes.

The best choices are a specialty eye product (cream or serum) containing chrysin and hydroxy succinimide, which help break up and disperse pigments that comprise dark circles.


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